Recipe in the Life of the Maranao By: Nagasura T. Madale, PhD. -Part 2

[kalopindo]

Recipes in the Life of the Maranao

Nagasura T. Madale, Ph.D.

II. Rites, Rituals and Symbolisms:

Why is the Sarimanok on top of the Dolang?

The Sarimanok as an art symbolizes the totem bird, itotoro,

considered a twin-spirit called inikadowa of the Maranaos.

According to this belief, every Maranao born has his own twinspirit.

The legend is traced back to a folk hero, Radia Indarapatra,

who married a water nymph, Potri rainalaut and begot two sons:

one who is seen, the ancestor of present day Maranaos; the

other, unseen, became the apo of the spirits that Maranaos invoke

in a number of rites and rituals.

These two brothers made an agreement, each one to protect

each other from malevolent spirits that may cause illness or even

death. As a sign of goodwill, the itotoro, totem bird, which happens

to be a rooster, is taken cared of by the seen (Maranaos), as a

link to the unseen spirits, their ancestor. Henceforth, the totem

bird became the link between the seen and unseen.

In the ritual stage, food is served to the lamin, a four-square

cubicle wrapped in yellow cloth, hung at the ceiling of the house,

believed to be the abode of the spirits.

As an art form, the fish on the beak of the carved Sarimanok

symbolizes the food that is offered to the totem bird, which is

now transformed into an art form, the Sarimanok.

In the dolang, the food in the tabak represent the food offering

to the Sarimanok, the latter transformed into a cake in the shape/

mold of the bird, Sarimanok. Thus, the Sarimanok (in cake form)

is on top of the dolang, brass tray.

In a one-tier dolang, the yellow rice is shaped like a mound

and is decorated with boiled eggs placed on sticks around the

plate. The same symbolism applies for the egg which represents

the bird, Sarimanok; the rice represents the food offering to the

bird, the bird as represented by the egg.

In other words, almost all the rites and rituals that Maranaos

do can be traced to their myths and legends as the ultimate

source. It explains why they have to reenact such activities in

their life cycle because they believe such events took place in the

past.

These legends and myths are “real” in that they justify such

rituals. Good harvest means the spirits invoked during the

kashawing were satisfied. In like manner, poor harvest means

they were not pleased. Likewise, the ritual performed in kaganat

sa lantai (child baptism) is also traced to Apo Babowa, the Spirit

of Mothers.

A. The Plants and Their Symbolisms:

Here is a sampling of plants and their symbolisms:

1. Palao – root crop, literally means “mountain.” It is

brought to the new house in the semang ritual. It

symbolizes wealth for the new occupants.

2. Rapa – camote, especially the leaves. It “crawls” and it

symbolizes growth. Used also as part of the semang

ritual.

3. Babasal – squash. Like the rapa or camote, it also

“crawls”, symbolizing growth and prosperity.

4. Banana – two varieties: the green and long one called

borongan, food in “heaven,” and the sweet, yellowish,

short variety known as amas (señorita). The latter is

the first solid food for babies. It symbolizes sweetness

and a prosperous life.

5. Gunda and paliyas – symbolize “coolness”and

“smartness.” Used as part of the semang ritual.

III. Maranao Recipes and Culture Change:

A. The Pagana Maranao as an Institution:

Mindanao State University at the Marawi campus has

institutionalized Pagana Maranao. Dignitaries and special

guests who visit the University are treated to a formal

dinner called Pagana Maranao.

It begins

with short

speeches from

the host. This

is followed with

the dinner and

entertainment

by the famous

D a r a n g e n

Dance Troupe,

and ends with

a short

response from

the guests,

and the giving

of gifts/token for the guests.

The guests, faculty and staff are also dressed in

Maranao attire: malong and kopya (cap) for the gentlemen.

The ambience is no doubt Maranao. The master of

ceremonies imitates the traditional host manners and

gestures of welcoming the guests with few lines of

pananaro-on (wise sayings and a sampling of Maranao

poetry).

An elevated platform, panggao, is set where the guests

stay, fully carpeted. The guests are served with the food

in the dolang, with Maranao recipes and a display of Maranao

hospitality par excellence!

The walls are fully decorated with lalansai and

mamandiyang. There is also a canopy above the panggao

known as ol-ol that displays the Ka’aba, holy place in Mecca.

B. Maranao Weddings:

Maranao weddings are the best occasions where Pagana

Maranao is ostentatiously displayed. On some occasions,

the kandolang is also displayed. When Lanao del Sur

recently observed its foundation day anniversary, the

thirty-seven municipalities including the city of Marawi

displayed the best of Maranao culture, history and art.

Thirty-seven booths representing the thirty-seven

municipalities and the city of Marawi around the lake were

constructed without any single nail at the Lanao del Sur

grounds. The display of the best of Maranao material culture

was also observed, as well as the playing of the kulintang.

The Marawi Resort Hotel, located at the campus of the

Mindanao State University in Marawi City, serves the best

of Maranao cuisine, the beef randang and Pagana Maranao!

IV. Conclusion:

Recipes in Maranao culture and society will endure and persist

against all odds for as long as the institutions that nourish it and

sustain it will survive. The threat from within is that there are

only very few skilled master chefs who can prepare these highly

specialized recipes, which are in turn served on special occasions

to special guests and dignitaries.

The Sultanate system among the Maranaos is still dynamic

and very vibrant. This is one institution that sustains the Pagana

Maranao and the Kandolang. Weddings have changed but Maranao

recipes have survived because it is part of andang sa muna and

anonen a rawaten (the ways of the ancestors, worthy of

emulation)! It is life itself and to sustain it means to give it new

forms if only to survive in the midst of change.

The Marawi Market still sells these native delicacies and serves

native recipes in the restaurants. It is an enterprising business

and several orders can be arranged for those who need them on

special occasions like weddings and vigils.

On the other hand, food which are served for ritual purposes

are dramatically disappearing because the ulema considered them

as un-Islamic. These specialized food served in rituals are slowly

disappearing and yet, they reflect the best of Maranao recipes

because they have direct links to their twin-spirits whom they

considered their apo!

Whether or not Maranao recipes will endure and persist in the

midst of globalization and commercialization is an issue we shall

not venture at this moment. Perhaps, another opportunity may

come, hopefully, in the near future when there are still informants

who could share their expertise on this topic.

A lot of Maranaos, especially the young, troop to fastfood

joints like Greenwich, Kentucky, McDonald’s and more so with

Jollibee, because they see in the signboard that halal food

displayed! Slowly, this has changed the “taste buds” of the

Maranaos. Like the other Filipinos, they like to explore what is

popularly known as “lasang Pinoy.”

For as long as the food served are not haram, unlawful, the

Maranaos will further venture and explore the “lasang Pinoy”

without necessarily forgetting their traditional taste buds – a rich

culture that links them to the past and their ancestors.

Insha-Allah and Alhamdolillah!

[Alonganpizayanan]

ALHAMDULILLAH,
KIA TOOSAN NAKEN BADEN SI COMM. ISAKO MATIMO KAMI SA ZAMBOANGA SA ZAMBOANGA HOTEL, KO REGIONAL CONSULTATIVE COMM. ( RCC ) INEBAALAN SO ORGANIC ACT SA ARMM. ISA SEKANIAN KO LANAO BLOCK A INI KHAKALKA O MANGA SAROANG A COMM. SA ORAS OTO

THE LANAO BLOCK COMM. ( RCC ) ORGANIC ACT.
1. late. atty, tocod macaraya comm.
2. late. Phd. taha basman comm.
3. eng'r mike lalanto comm.
4. frof. nagasora madale comm.
5. former educ. sec ARMM salipada tamano
6.atty, nasser marohomsalic
sa oras oto na manga comm. staff kami oras i late. pres. cory aquino.